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October 2024

Kumano Kodo Day 1: Tanabe to Takahara

“There are no safe paths in this part of the world. Remember you are over the Edge of the Wild now, and in for all sorts of fun wherever you go.” ― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit


Length: 2.65 mi

Elev. gain: 1,263 ft

Moving time: 1:53:53

Avg pace: 42:55

Total time: 2:17:35

High temp: 88°F


But first…

We enjoyed incredible sashimi at Horai Sushi in Tanabe. It’s the little things that matter. Like savoring the best tuna in the entire world.

It began at Takijiri-oji

Today the trail went straight up the mountain for a mile. It was unseasonably, unforgivingly hot. Slow and steady, hydrate or diedrate was the mantra.

Tanai Kuguri

The whole pilgrimage is a rebirth of sorts, so why not start by squeezing through a little cave named “going through the womb”? Ancient legend says it purifies the body and spirit and grants smooth childbirth.

It was worth taking the extra steps for the view at a lookout point.

Hoshizora-no-Yado

Our host Ichiro shooed us into a wooden tub with a breathtaking view of the mountains while he prepared a feast so massive we nearly passed out at the table that night.

Onward to Day 2

Published: October 2024

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