“A safe fairyland is untrue to all worlds.” ― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit
Length: 6.20 mi
Elev. gain: 1,608 ft
Moving time: 3:55:15
Avg pace: 37:56
Total time: 4:39:14
High temp: 90°F
Kumano Hongu Taisha
After enjoying mountaintop views of the largest torii gate in the world, we entered the main shrine of the Kumano Kodo. A sign at the gate said “Welcome to Kumano Hongu Taisha. You must be tired.” We were interviewed by an 82 year old man for his Insta vlog. He recently taught himself English by recording conversations with visitors during the day and replaying them over and over at night to learn. I learned a lot at the temples, myself. Then we ate curry at a restaurant in the small town and headed out to face the next mountain.
Is it considered shinrin yoku extra credit if you’re swimming in your own sweat while forest bathing? The high was at least 90 degrees, which contributed to Dainichi-goe being one of toughest mountains for me. We went straight up, then straight down, because apparently it’s more spiritually cleansing to do it the hard way. There was one spot on the trail where over a thousand years of footprints had carved grooves 6 inches deep into the stone. It felt like an honor to step there.
Watashi wa Sta
We watched a young Mamushi, the most venomous viper in Japan, slither along a stone Jizo monument near the summit. It was pretty goose bumpy.
Magical Yunomine
The hot spring village of Yunomine is nestled so deep in the crevice between the mountains that we couldn’t see the moon above us. I relished the best gyoza I’ve ever tasted at the only restaurant in town, then ate strawberry ice cream while walking back to our hostel. Take a right at the giant Tanuki.