“Far over the misty mountains cold, to dungeons deep and caverns old, we must away, ere break of day.” ― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit
Length: 9.73 mi
Elev. gain: 2,608 ft
Moving time: 5:52:02
Avg pace: 36:11
Total time: 6:40:16
High temp: 86°F
A Horugai Goodbye
Our host at the schoolhouse trumpeted a farewell from a giant conch shell, a thousand year old Shugendo ritual that helped propel us back to the mountains.
Kogumotori-goe
Eventually we reached the highest elevation I have ever climbed on this planet. The view was great. 73% of Japan is mountains and I felt like I could see half of them from our perch.
My favorite bento lunch on the trail was wrapped in a bamboo sheath and included local, seasonal foods like mehari sushi (wrapped in a pickled mustard leaf), bamboo shoot, and pickled plum.
I guess this would be a good time to mention the Kumano Kodo is a UNESCO World Heritage Pilgrimage. Passport stamps are found in little wooden birdhouse looking structures all along the trail. I have been living for the next stamp in my book, which is filling up!
The Old Schoolhouse
Our lodging for the night was an old elementary school converted into a minshuku for hikers. The sinks were very low – so cute! We slept in a classroom and ate in the school cafeteria. Why don’t you try eating a chicken leg covered in slippery sauce with chopsticks? Then we’ll see who’s laughing. (It’s still the okaa-san behind the counter.)