“Truly, songs and tales fall utterly short of the reality.” ― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit
Length: 2.96 mi
Elev. gain: 558 ft
Moving time: 1:54:05
Avg pace: 38:30
Total time: 2:09:15
High temp: 82°F
Kumano Nachi Taisha
Today it rained. This gave me the opportunity to wear the super awesome Rain Kiss poncho (20 recycled plastic bottles + cool Dutch design = 1 poncho) I got for the hike.
We explored Kumano Nachi Taisha in search of our next passport stamp, then approached the 800 year old, powerfully aromatic Camphor tree at the center of the shrine for our next ritual. Visitors can write a wish on a wooden ema, carry it into the massive trunk of the hollow tree, out over a branch, then down to hang it on the rack for its ritual burning. I’m sure you can guess what I wrote on mine… “I wish for nothing and accept everything.”
Nachi no Otaki
Since ancient times, the tallest waterfall in Japan has been said to house a deity. Drinking the water allegedly grants long life, so I chugged some from my Aerialogy water bottle when we stopped for a selfie.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha
We hopped a bus to Katsuura, took the train to Shingu, then walked to the final shrine in the Kumano Sanzan. It rained more, which gave me the opportunity to use the unintentionally matchy-matchy umbrella I bought in Kyoto.
Full Passport, Full Heart
It was satisfying to press that final stamp into my Kumano Kodo passport, but sad in the way that finishing a great book is sad… I didn’t want it to be over. Abigail and Alexis, thank you for being fantastic, fearless companions on the trail. And thank you to everyone who cheered us on, especially my mother, who sent a beautiful engraved bracelet commemorating the most important lesson from my pilgrimage <3
“Roads go ever ever on
under cloud and under star,
yet feet that wandering have gone
turn at last to home afar.”
J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit